Woven fabric



(Specimeng) A. HEALD WOVEN FABRIC.

FIG?

m: NORFKE FETERS co PHOTO-LITHCL. WASHINGTON n. c.

- T on whom it may concern:

. UNITED. STATES- PATENT OFFICE.

ALFRED. HEALD, or PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

WOVEN FABRIC.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 605,783, dated June 14,1898.

Application filed April 5,1397. Seria1No.630,786. (Specimens) Be itknown that I, ALFRED HEALD, a.citizen of the United States, residingin'Phila delphia, Pennsylvania, have invented certain Improvements inWoven Fabrics, of which the following is a specification.

My invention consists of certain improvements in the woven fabric forwhich I obtained Letters Patent of the United States, No. 198,615, datedDecember 25, 1877, one object ofmy present invention being to produce afabric having the combined ingrain and damask effects upon the surface,asin said patented fabric, without the use of any heavy damaskweft-threads embedded in the body of the fabric, a further object beingto provide for greater variety of coloring in the pattern of the fabric,and a still further object being to economize in the use of the damaskwarp-thread.

In'the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a face iew of apiece of fabricembodying my present invention without any attempt "being made torepresent the weave.

Fig. 2 is an exaggerated section of the fabric, taken in the directionof the warp. Fig. 3 is a like exaggerated section of the fabric, takenin the direction of the weft; and Figs. 4 and 5 are sections similar toFig. 2, but illustrating special-forms of the fabric.

In the fabric forming the subject of my before-mentioned patent Icombined ingrain and damask plies, which were transposed according aseither was required to appear upon the face of the fabric, the other plygoing toithe back. The ingrain ply was composed of inter woven finewarps and heavier wefts, and the damask ply .was composed of face warps,heavy filling threads or wefts, and alternate fine wefts with whichoneor other of the warps of the ingrain ply engaged, so as to confinethetwo plies of the fabric firmly together. Viewed in one light, therefore,the ingrain ply of my patented fabric took the place of one'of theface-warps of a true damask fabric, while viewed in another light thedamask ply took the place of the second ply of a true two-ply ingrainfabric. The heavy weft-thread of the damask ply was used, as in a truedarn-- ask fabric, simply as a stufier-thread to give body to the fabricand to provide for the deep drawing down or indenting of the warpthreadsbetween the filling or stufier threads,

.whichis characteristic of such damask-car- .pet fabric. In my presentfabric'I produce the damask effect due to the deeply-indented warpswithout the use of the stutter-wefts, and I .form the ingrain ply bycombining fine binding-warps with sets of weft-threads in such mannerthat either thread of the set may appear upon the face of the fabric,where its appearance is necessary for the produc tion of the properpattern. All of the ingrain weft-threads of a set are by preferenceintroduced into the same shed of the warp and when at the back of thefabric lie in the same horizontal plane. These features, however, arenot absolutely essential to the broader embodiment of my invention.

In Figs. 2 and 3 of the drawings, A A represent the damask warp-threads,which may, for instance, be dark blue, and B and Y theingrain'weft-tlirea'ds, which may be light blue and yellow,respectively, a a representing the ingrain warps, and b the damasktying-weft.

In the section of the fabric marked a: the damask warp is on the faceand the ingrain ply at the back, while in the section of fabric marked wthe'weft-threads Bare on the face, .theweft-threads Y at the back, andthe darnask warps A between them, and in the section of fabric marked ythe weft-threads Y are on the face, the weft-threads B at the back, andthe damask warps A between them. Hence it will be seen that each of themain threads of the fabric is available for useindividually in any partof the pattern, so that patterns of a more elaborate characterv and ofwider range of coloring are possible than with the patented fabric. 1

r The damask warp is embedded between the face and back wefts instead ofbeing carried to the back of the fabric, partly in order to separatesaid wefts and prevent them from the true damask fabric, and in order toproduce substantially the same effect I subject the fine binding-warps aa of the ingrain fabric to such a tension as will draw down tightly thefine binding-wefts b, and thereby deeply indent or compress thecomparatively soft damask warps A wherever they are bound by said wefts7).

I11 Fig. 4 I have shown a fabric in which the ingrain wefts are in setsof three, lettered, respectively, B, Y, and Rsay, for instance, blue,yellow, and red-two threads of the set remaining at the back of thefabric whenever the third thread is carried to the face, and in Fig. 5 lhave shown a fabric similar in structure to that represented in Fig. 2,but with threads of different color in successive sets. Thus one set iscomposed,say,of a green thread G and a mixed thread M, while the nextset is composed of a green thread G and a red thread R, a thread of likecolor being used in both sets in order that the fabric may be woven withthe ordinary four-box ingrain loom, three of the boxes carrying theshuttles for the threads G, M, and R and the fourth carrying the shuttlefor the fine binder-weft 7).

The term damask warp-thread as herein used is intended to mean awarp-thread which when it appears upon the face of the fabric iscompressed and deeply indented at regular intervals by a finebinding-weft, and said warp-thread may consist of a single strand or ofany desired number of strands controlled as a unit by the sheddingmechanism of the loom.

In weaving my improved fabric the warps a a are controlled by the heddleframes or journals of the loom, as usual, or by a jacquard machineconstructed to shed these warps in the same manner as such heddle framesor journals, the warps A being under control of a jacquard machine, soas to be raised and lowered in accordance with the exigencies of thepattern when the ingrain wefts are being inserted, and said machinebeing also capable of operation so as to shed the warps A in the samemanner as journals or heddles for the insertion of the fine wefts b. Theingrain wefts of each setare introduced successively, and in insertingeach set of these wefts each warp A is raised during the insertion ofthe entire set where said warp is to appear upon the face of the fabric,but is lowered for one pick and raised for the remaining pick or picksof the set where it is to pass between the face and back wefts of thefabric, or it maybe lowered during the insertion of the entire set if itis desired to carry it to the back of the fabric.

Having thus described my invention,I claim and desire to secure byLetters Patent 1. A woven fabric in which damask warps, ingrain wefts,fine binding-warps, and a fine damask binding-weft are combined so as toform the face of the fabric in part of damask warps compressed anddeeply indented by the fine binding-weft, and in part of ingrain weftsbound by the fine warps, substantially as specified.

2. A woven fabric in which damask warps, ingrain wefts in sets, finebinding-warps and a fine damask binding-weft are combined so as to formthe face of the fabric in part of damask warps compressed and deeplyindented by the fine binding-wefts and in part of ingrain weftsindependently displayed and bound by the fine warps, substantially asspecified.

3. A woven fabric in which damask warps, ingrain wefts in sets, ingrainbinding-warps, and a fine damask binding-weft, are combined as describedwhereby the face of the fabric is composed in part of damask warps,compressed and deeply indented by the fine binding-weft, and in part ofingrain wefts independently displayed and bound by the fine warps, theingrain wefts of each set lying side by side in the same horizontalplane 011 the back of the fabric where the damask warps appear upon theface, substantially as specified.

4. A woven fabric in which damask warps, ingrain wefts in sets, ingrainbinding-warps, and a fine damask binding-weft, are combined as describedwhereby the face of the fabric is composed in part of damask warpscompressed and deeplyindented by said fine binding-weft, and in part ofingrain wefts independently displayed and bound by the fine warps, theingrain wefts of each set being inserted in the same shed ofbinding-warp and said ingrain wefts lying side by side in the same planeon the back of the fabric where the damask warps appear upon the face,substantially as specified.

5. A woven fabric comprising damask warps, ingrain wefts in sets,ingrain bindingwarps, and a fine damask binding-weft, the face of thefabric being composed in part of damask warps compressed and deeplyindented by the fine binding-weft, and in part of in grain weftsindependently displayed and bound by the fine warps, the damask warpslying between ingrain wefts upon the face of the fabric and ingrainwefts upon the back of the fabric wherever such damask warps do notappear upon the face, substantially as specified.

6. A woven fabric comprising damask warps, ingrain wefts in sets,ingrain bindingwarps and a fine damask binding-weft, the face of thefabric being composed in part of damask warps compressed and deeplyindented by the fine binding-weft, and in part of ingrain weftsindependently displayed and bound by the fine warps, said ingrain weftslying side by side in the same plane at the back of the fabric where thedamask warps appear upon the face, and said damask warps lying betweeningrain wefts on the face of the fabric and ingrain wefts upon the backof the same, wherever they do not appear upon the face, substantially asspecified.

7 A woven fabric comprising damask warps, ingrain wefts comprisingrepetitions of two pairs with a like thread in each pair,

ingrain binding-warps and a fine bindingweft combined as describedwhereby the-face of the fabric is composed in part of damask warpscompressed and deeply indented by the fine weft, and in part of theingrain wefts independently displayed, said wefts lying side by side atthe back of the fabric when the damask warps are on the face, and saiddamask warps lying between ingrain wefts of the face and back of thefabric wherever they do not appear upon the face, substantially asspecified.

In testimony whereof I have signed my 15 name to this specification inthe presence of two subscribing witnesses.

ALFRED HEALD.

Witnesses F. E. BECHTOLD, WILL. A. BARR.

